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Rajasthan Diary
submitted by Anu Rao

Starting Out
October 21, 2001


Well, here I am in Rajasthan, the "land of the Kings", and so far it has been simply amazing! We, i.e. my family consisting of my parents and younger sister Nitya, left from the Old Delhi Railway Station on a cool October night. The sights and smells of the station were enough to raise our already-high excitement levels, and brought to mind the good old days when we would travel for days on end from one corner of India to another, the train chugging along merrily…

Jodhpur - Day 1
October 22, 2001

The journey was comfortable, and we reached Jodhpur this morning, and headed straight for our humble guesthouse. The weather is extremely hot, and though the sun is blazing, this dry heat is so much better than the unbearable Delhi heat.

After breakfast we headed out to the awesome Mehrangarh Fort. It is simply breathtaking! The sheer size of the fort takes your breath away – it easily took us two hours to explore it. Its museum, temple, moat, cannons and architecture showcase the splendour of a bygone era.

Lunch was in typical Rajasthani style – at a roadside dhaba. We had a sumptuous meal, consisting of dal-bhattiI, a wheat-based dish, and choorma, a sweet made of dried fruits, as well as a curry dish called gulab jamun! Everything was prepared with sinful helpings of ghee and oil, and was very tasty indeed!

After lunch we headed to the spectacular Umaid Bhavan Palace. Its sprawling, landscaped lawns caught our immediate attention; as did the exquisite sandstone exteriors, open courtyards and plush interiors. This architectural delight was built by Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1929, and is currently the property of the present Maharaja Gaj Singh. It is now divided into three parts, consisting of a museum, the Maharaja’s personal room and a five-star luxury hotel, of which only the former is open to the general public.

We returned to the guesthouse very hot and very exhausted. After some much-needed rest, we headed out to Kailanga Lake in the evening. This huge lake was built by one of Jodhpur’s prudent maharajas to provide his rain-bereft kingdom with water. We reached in time to witness the sunset, whose beauty was magnified by the surrounding foliage of the lake.

At night we drove through B-Road and C-Road, the two famous commercial shopping centres of Jodhpur. Noisy and crowded, we quickly left them behind and headed to the famous juti store, where we excitedly chose the jutis, pointed Rajasthani shoes that come in a wide variety of colours, of our choice; and loudly oohed and aahed about the others’ purchases!

Satisfied with our shopping for the time being, we drove through Jodhpur’s congested streets, and on reaching the guesthouse, decided to retire for the night.

Jodhpur - Day 2
October 23, 2001


Got up bright and early, all ready for our next round of sightseeing. We started the day with a visit to Jaswant Thada, a memorial site built in honour of Maharaja Jaswant Singh Ji II, by his son. From here, there is a beautiful view of the Mehrangarh Fort. The mausoleum is built in marble, and is surrounded by a lake, numerous royal cenotaphs and gardens. Its temple depicts the entire lineage of the Maharajas of (what was earlier) Marwar. Really, a trip back in time…

We then proceeded to the Mandor Gardens, replete with a fort, enormous royal tombs, a lake, statues of heroes and rulers of Marwar, and of course, lush gardens. The place serves as a nice picnic spot, but we rushed on - there is so much of Jodhpur that we are yet to see.

Our next stop was the five-storey National Emporium, a private (read, not government) store stacked with all things Rajasthani – quilts and bedcovers, purses, saris and salwar kameez, crockery and cutlery, candles and other decorative items. Mom went a bit berserk there, buying up quite a bit of the store (!!), while the rest of us bought a few mementos and such knick-knacks as gifts for others.

Roaming around in the hot sun, and especially the shopping frenzy tired us out, so we decided to have an early lunch and retire for the afternoon. Went to a nice restaurant in the heart of the city called Mangalam and ate to our hearts content (which I’ve decided I must stop, otherwise I’d die of obesity or guilty conscience or both!!).

We're leaving for Jaisalmer early tomorrow morning. Our driver, a veteran in these areas, is eager to stop and show us all that we can see on the way. Plus, we’ve come at an auspicious time – tomorrow is Ashtami, which the state is all geared up to celebrate with fervour. More sights and sounds to witness…

Jaisalmer - Day 1
October 24, 2001


Left Jodhpur at 6am, and had a pilgrimage of sorts all the way here (which incidentally was predicted by a wandering sage in Delhi. Initially my parents, who are now thoroughly convinced of the authenticity of his claims, rebuffed his premonitions! How true it has turned out.) The veteran driver, delighted that we had come at this auspicious time, stopped at three propitious templesOsiyan, Ram Deograh and Bhadriya - and made sure we had a thorough round of each.

We passed through the Pokaran area. Though far away from the site of the nuclear blasts, which is a restricted area, I was very excited, nonetheless.

Reached the beautiful desert city of Jaisalmer in the afternoon. ‘Exotic’ was the first thought that came to my mind. Jaisalmer is also a very touristy sort of place, which is natural, considering the city thrives on revenues from tourism. However, with recent events (Indo-Pak tension), the tourism industry has hit an all-time low - a very sad situation, because Jaisalmer has so much to offer to the average tourist.

Today was a real fun day! After lunch we went to the Havelis - beautiful sandstone mansions that had been built by Jaisalmer's wealthy merchants. Several of these intricately carved buildings, some 300-400 years old, are still in beautiful condition. The small-latticed windows of the havelis are intriguing; and the view of the entire city from the terrace was breathtaking.

We then drove out to the Sam sand dunes. A picturesque scene greeted us – the sun beating down, camels walking along gracefully on the sand, colourfully attired folk dancers and singers – all ready to lure enamoured tourists. Both Nitya and I acted like giggly little schoolgirls atop the camel! It was so enjoyable, swaying to and fro to the rhythm of the ‘ship of the desert’. The camel ride was definitely the highlight of our day!

We then joined our parents, who were being serenaded by the folk singers, and participated merrily in the impromptu song and dance fest. After witnessing the incredible Sam sunset and clicking numerous snaps of the same, we drove back to our guesthouse, a very satisfied lot.

Jaisalmer - Day 2
October 25, 2001

Today we did much driving through the barren landscape - dotted with shrubs, cattle, sheep, donkeys, camels, and of course, the sturdy Rajasthani folk. The hot sun beating down ferociously, coupled with the tough landscape made me admire the tenacity of man and beast, and the hardships that they had to endure in this desert land.

After an early breakfast we went to Gadsisar Lake, a man-made lake constructed by Maharaja Gadsi Singh Ji in 1367. It is very scenic, with numerous temples around the lake and one in its centre. An ideal place for boating.

But we had no interest in that - the majestic Jaisalmer Fort awaited us. This huge fort is made out of natural sandstone, and has the distinction of being the only fort that houses the city’s residents. The intricate carvings of the fort are splendid, and I could easily envision the grandeur of the glorious era long past. Our tour guide had the distinction of being the city’s first official tour guide. His family has lived in the Jaisalmer Fort for 20 generations, and he is a very revered man himself. He painstakingly took us through the long winding roads of the fort and gave us a detailed explanation of its history - every nook and corner had some interesting anecdote to be relayed!

The tour of the fort was the easy part! Thereafter began a strenuous journey into the desert hinterland, which proved to be a very unique and memorable experience for a variety of reasons. It was also a day of Temples, beginning with the Jain temples in the fort.

We then drove through the arid countryside, reaching the renowned Thanot temple after a drive of almost 2 hours, in time for the arati. There, we were able to witness the temple geared up for Ram Nawami festivities. The temple has an interesting history - according to the local inhabitants, during the Indo-Pak war of 1965, about 15 live Pakistani missiles landed in the temple premises, but did not explode. Moreover, as the Pakis couldn't capture the temple, it led to the belief that divine intervention was responsible for this miracle, and for India's ultimate success in the war. Thus, there is great regard for the Thanot devi in that area, which also explains the large number of security forces that flock the temple.

The sun was blazing down mercilessly upon us, but we continued to drive further (after reinforcing ourselves with that all-important commodity, water) in the direction of the Indo-Pak border. We stopped at an army post, where the young captain in charge of the post received us. I wasn't prepared for the sight that met our eyes - what adverse conditions our security forces toil under! Their travails in this hot, desert land are indescribable - a far cry from the secure lives we lead in our towns and cities.

The young (barely in his 20s) and enterprising captain described the hardships that a soldier undergoes in a remote place like this. He was full of remorse for the precious lives that our security forces lose protecting our land, and the demoralisation in the armed forces as a result of India's policy of restraint. It was all so poignant, and brought a lump to my throat - how courageous and dedicated our men are…

After lunch there (a unique experience, to say the least), we drove a few kms further to Longewala, the site of a Pakistani tank and retrieve truck. These remnants of the 1965 war are a reminder of how far our neighbours had advanced into Indian territory before they were repulsed. They stand in the hot and bleak desert terrain, testimony to the brave fight our soldiers put up to regain our land from the intruders. A surge of patriotism overcame me, which had been building up ever since our visit to the army post - how much we owe to our defence personnel, and how little recognition they get…

On our return journey, we took a diversion and headed to the Ludarwa temple, a very celebrated Jain temple that is more than 300 years old. Its architectural beauty has you amazed - 'how was such intricate work carved out of sandstone in that day and age?' I ask myself. This temple is distinguished by the huge Kalpataru tree, which as legend goes, fulfils your wishes. My dad staunchly believes in the powers of the tree. He had wished way back in 1977 for a loving family, which he would one day bring back to the temple - and lo and behold, here we were! Not wanting to miss this opportunity, I promptly wished something (along similar lines) for myself too!

We reached the guesthouse tired, but extremely content. It has been a thoroughly exciting day, filled with lakes, forts, temples, long and dusty drives, and glimpses into the life of an Indian soldier. There is definitely more to the region that meets the eye. This Jaisalmer expedition - a unique and varied experience, to say the least - has definitely been the highlight of my trip.

Ajmer
October 26, 2001


We left Jaisalmer early in the morning. It had been decided that we would break for lunch at Jodhpur. Our first stop was Umaid Sagar - a sparkling lake, after which we stopped for a wholesome and utterly delicious Marwari lunch (where we all must have put on at least a million calories!).

En route to Ajmer, we stopped at the Mata sati temple, dedicated to the sati goddess, to whom innumerable disciples all over Rajasthan flock once a year. Heading on, we passed through the Aravalli Mountains, and were struck by the change in scenery. The landscape is full of rocky mountains and lush greenery - so different from the desert we had left behind.

We reached Ajmer in the evening, and made our way up the hill to the majestic Circuit House. It housed the British Resident in colonial times, and is a grand structure from which you can get a magnificent view of the Anna Sagar Lake. (Actually, President Musharraf was to stay here during his recent trip to India. This proposal was shelved due to failure of talks between the two countries).

The city of Ajmer did not impress me too much - I found it crowded, noisy and polluted. But what enchanted me was Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti's dargah (which President Musharraf had been very keen to visit), where the great Sufi saint was laid to rest. This had made Ajmer an important pilgrim centre for all sects of Muslims, from all over the world. In fact, both Hindus and Muslims visit the dargah, seeking a boon or just peace of mind.

The priest blessed us, and I was suddenly filled with a deep sense of spiritualism. It dawned on me that like all other religions; Islam too preaches peace and harmony. However, fanatics have destroyed its good name. Fanaticism is a great evil of our times, and Islam has been its unwilling victim… I left the dargah with a sense of awe, fortunate enough to get a glimpse of the true spirit of Islam.

We then proceeded to Pushkar, the site of the famous Pushkar Mela, the biggest cattle fair in the country that is held there every November, where men and women congregate from all over Rajasthan and other nearby places to buy and sell horses, camels and cattle. We also visited the famous Brahma temple, one of the only two temples dedicated to Brahma. Devout Hindus believe that it is imperative to visit this temple at least once in their lifetime. Well, we surely secured salvation for ourselves!


Jaipur
October 27, 2001


Our final destination, Jaipur, has been a delight to visit! But, as usual, we were faced with the dilemma of so much to do and so little time! Leaving Ajmer in the morning, we stopped to shop at Kishangarh, a city known for its arts and crafts. The city is also a storehouse of marbles, and huge marble slabs line its streets. We greatly admired the miniature paintings, especially those made of crushed stones; and it did not surprise us in the least to learn that Kishangarh is famous for these miniature works of art.

We then reached the capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur, which is not called the 'Pink City' for nothing! All its buildings are a shade of pink, maintaining the façade of the days of old. En route to the majestic Amer Fort, we stopped and admired the Hawa Mahal, a multi-layered palace with a staggering number of windows and stone screens, and the Jal Mahal, a beautiful palace situated in the middle of a lake.

The sheer magnitude of the Amer Fort is the first thing that struck me. Surrounded by huge ramparts and watchtowers, the fort is strategically situated on top of the hill. My tour guide tells me that the Kachhawa Rajputs built the fort. The architecture is a delightful mix of Hindu and Iranian workmanship, and the Sheesh Mahal (hall of mirrors) is covered with an exquisite display of mirrors, which reflect any streak of light, thus illuminating the entire room.

Jai Garh, built on a peak by Raja Jai Singh, the founder of Jaipur, overlooks the palace. This was where the Raja's fabulous treasure collection was stashed away and carefully guarded. An unbelievable amount of wealth!

We reached our guesthouse late in the evening exhausted, but dazzled by the beauty of the city. The shopping here, as in all the other cities, was truly enjoyable. Rajasthan’s arts and crafts have an ethnic appeal that is truly irresistible. Its pottery, jewellery, metalwork and textiles are all characterised by an earthy feel and vibrant colours, to whose charms I fully succumbed! In fact, Rajasthan's handicrafts are reflective of its rich cultural heritage.

In the evening, we visited the Birla mandir, a dazzling temple made of marble, dedicated to lord Vishnu. With its landscaped garden it painted a very pretty picture, which increased manifold when illumined at night. The mandir, adjacent to the palace of Maharani Gayatri Devi (considered one of the most elegant women in the country), houses a beautiful statue of lord Vishnu, and is pervaded by an atmosphere of tranquillity.

Finally, we were off to our last destination for the day - and of the trip too. At night we drove to Choki Dhani, (which literally translates into 'Good Village') a 5-star ethnic village resort. It is heavy on the pocket, but is definitely worth a visit. We all hungrily attacked the (unlimited and) very tasty Rajasthani food! The resort is modelled on a typical Rajasthani village, replete with huts, folk dancers and singers, camel and bullock-cart rides, arts and crafts, even a magician! We were totally enchanted by all the attractions, and 2 hours there seemed too little…

Musings

Rajasthan has been an unforgettable experience. There is so much to see and do - the sights and sounds are almost intoxicating. I came away thoroughly wonderstruck by the grandeur of Rajasthan - an ancient land that has so much to offer, in terms of its natural beauty, history, politics, culture and tradition. I have promised myself that this will not be my last visit to this beautiful land - after all there is so much left to explore…

Copyright ©2001 Anu Rao. Used with Permission.

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